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Living in History

Diane DeWaters

It is early Sunday morning, still dark in January, and the luxury of sleeping in is shattered by the sudden window-rattling ringing of the church bells. They ring with a vengeance making sure that everyone in the beautiful, old town are aware that this is the day to come to the Basilique and worship. My bed shakes as if the bells are speaking directly to me. It is not surprising since the church is as large as many European cathedrals even though it is in the small town of Echternach (pronounced esh-ter-knock), Luxembourg. And even less surprising since the church is my next-door neighbor. I can look out my bedroom window and see many of the former church members as they lie in the churchyard cemetery, gravestones so close to one another and leaning as if listening to what the other is saying. The bells must be loud this time of year since they will soon be silenced by Lent and their annual "visit" to the Pope in Rome to be blessed.
     Inside the church are many wonders that I never failed to enjoy sharing with visitors. The beautiful crypt of St. Wilibrord, the town's patron saint and an Irishman at that, lies in the basement enclosed in a glassed room to keep out souvenir hunters. In a room next to the Saint you can look at the ceiling and barely see the painting that for hundreds of years was reputed to be one of only two artistic works depicting a pregnant Mary, mother of Jesus! In another smaller room are two ancient crypts, their tops just open enough to make everyone hesitate before looking in.
     The town of Echternach lies on the border with Germany and is surrounded by the beautiful Sure River, wooded areas, and hills and rocks with waterfalls. The town has many narrow, cobble-stoned streets and ancient ramparts, wonderful to explore. For all those reasons thousands of tourists from all over the world visit every year, especially in the summer when this country of four distinct seasons is warm during the day and pleasant at night. The Town Hall is fairly new--a 15th century medieval structure that endured centuries of abuse only to be tormented almost to ruin by the bombs of both World Wars.
     It is the past, though, that really keeps this town alive and in the minds of people wishing to show loyalty and allegiance to the Saint. St. Wilibrord came to this area of Luxembourg in the 7th century to set up a Benedictine Abbey when Europe was still in the Dark Ages. His legacy, however, is kept alive by an annual event that has its roots with the Black Plague and the itinerant flagellants who walked the Continent performing their self-abusive acts in the name of salvation. On Whit Tuesday of every year (late May or early June) thousands of Europeans come in groups of twenty, thirty or more and take part in a dancing procession. Each group lines up in rows, perhaps 6 to a row, each dancer connected to the other with a cloth or handkerchief. When the dancing begins the first row jumps to the right and the second to the left, with following rows alternating. A group might have its own band following it or be sharing with another group. The dancing does not change, only consists of jumping back and forth while moving forward, all to the same tune, hour after hour. For the dancer the trance is broken only by an imploring speech following each tune, "St. Wilibrord, a true voice of God! - St. Wilibrord, an overthrower of idols! Pray for us, St. Wilibrord." For the watcher, the trance never ends and never fails to entertain.
     I was a teenager living in a pre-medieval town in the 20th century and I was in awe of its past. I even became resentful of the infringement of modern life, aware for the first time of the problems this created for much of Europe, not just Echternach. The people of the town had the right to be a part of the 20th century, but didn't I, as a visiting resident of the town, have the right to its history?

Diane DeWaters is working on her Ph.D. in Trans-Atlantic History at UTA. She is in her final year of coursework. She is also an adjunct faculty member, teaching U.S. History at Tarrant County College in Hurst and North Lake College in Irving.