STUDY-ABROAD GHANA BLOG: 2007

Arrive in the morning at Takota airport and see the large Akwaaba! sign above the door... greeting us in AKAN.We check into hotel, get comfortable and take an orientation drive around Accra. Accra is the capital of Ghana and, although a vibrant modern city not unlike Dallas, also holds many places of historical awareness. Our guide, Dr. Jalloh and Dr. Varner point out styles of buildings, art, statues, homes, and all the incredible differences that we will become aware of over the next weeks.

Visit University of Ghana-Legon bookstore where we purchase a number of text books on Ghana that are unavailable in the Unitest States. In Particular Dr. Varner buys a kindergarten book on "Learning Twi," one of the many local languages, because the book is illustrated with very typical images of Ghana. In the afternoon we visit the American Embassy and, for the first time, experience the clothmarket where member of the class purchase traditional attire and drums. The market is a whirlwind of activity where you can purchase traditional clothing or have some custom made for you. You pick the cloth and the design and it will be done in a matter of days. Many of the students purchase traditional drums to play while studying here. Dr. Varner arranges for a "Djembe" drum to be made for him from the local Mahoghany.

Lecture by University of Ghana History professor Addo Fenning on the History and traditions of the various language groups in Ghana including the GA,EWE, FANTE, and ASHANTE. Although the internet is available in our hotel we visit an Internet Cafe to write home and start course "blogs"

Visit Recording studio of John Collins, music professor from University of Ghana. Attend class on traditional music of Ghana and the roots of the style of music that will come to the new world and influence JAZZ.

Visit the center of Accra and take the opportunity to have some "American" food.... ala... Pizza! We plan on eating as traditionally Ghana as possible and eat regularly at a "country" style eatery known for its FUFU and Mutton dishes such as Waakye. Although English (that particular British kind of english because before independence Ghana was a British colony) is spoken by everyone we are all also learning words in EWE and GA such as "Medisi" which is a greeting similar to hello...

Attend Church to hear choir and professional musicians. Travel to the Beach for lunch. The seafood is clean and plentiful and the coast is an awesome view. it is easy to set for hours watching the wooden dugout fishing boats repeatedly throw their nets into the Gulf of Guinea. We run into a traditional Baptism up the beach from where we are. The GA are traditionally fishermen and the baptism is an important part of that.

Drumming and Dance lessons with Ewe Master musician Kwame Johnson. The EWE style is the most common style known in america but to hear it sung, danced, and played by an authentic master is very special. Our classes like this are taught on authentic instruments and include Dancing, singing, stories, and drumming. Everyone, no matter how inexperienced gets involved..... we share each other's embarassment about how really bad a dancers we are!

Purchase musical instruments at the Market in downtown Accra. Members of the group buy childrens toys, 2 small gourds attached together by string called Televi. Even the smallest child can "make music" with this simple rhythm device.... but we find it challenging! In the afternoon we visit a local elementary school and speak with Children. We will visit other schools while here. We watch them demonstrate traditional EWE songs and dances and answer any questions they have about Texas and about Arlington. They are all dressed in the typical brown school uniforms and they are all very politely curious about our trip to the country they are so proud of.

Morning class on ASHANTE music style called "Kete." After a traditional lunch at a local cafe we have a class lecture discussion by Dr.Varner on what to observe and on our text book that has given us a great idea of the art/history/food/language, and customs we are experiencing. The local newspaper informs us that the GA silent observance HOMOWO is announced over

Class on GA music including popular contemporary style "Kpanlogo." Trip to rural GA village to observe festival celebrating the "end" of HOMOWO. Although it is raining we find ourselves in a crowd of about 200 village members who have come to share music and dancing. Another group of American students from New York University are also here. We stand in back of the village "Chief" as a number of both local master musicians and plain villagers perform on the village drums and flutes. Singing and dancing are always a part off a celebration. We are invited in to the Chief's house and given softdrinks to honor us as guests. The Chief and Elder head of the tribe reveal some of the tradition and history of the village and in the end we all finish with pictures of us and the Chief. On the way to the village we observed a funeral procession and music associated with it. The bright red and black attire seems incongruent with a funeral as did the "celebratory" nature of the music but... we are here to learn the details of the culture and so appreciate the opportunity.

Class on the traditional Ghana string lute called "Seprewa" given by Aaron, one of the last "masters" of the instrument. Traveled latenight to downtown Accra to hear music at a local nightclub.

Attend church to hear live professional musicians. Many of the finest musicians in Ghana now perform for the church

History day: tour the "Dubois" house. An advisor to the first Ghana president who wrote a "dictionary" of African culture and history. Part of his home is decorated with "spider webs." this at first seems a little unique until we remember that the spider is a symbol of wisdom in Ghana. In particular all Ghana children know stories of the wise spider "ANANSEE" who is so small he must overcome challenges with his WITS! We take a tour the city and travel past the government buildings such as Congress. Visit the Masoleum of Nkrumah; the "George Washington" of Ghana. While visiting the Masoleum and adjacent museum meet one of Nkrumah's actual sons who spoke with our group briefly. Lunch on the beach and then travel to a local village world reknowned for making "coffins." Coffins in Ghana are often ornate sculptures representing what the person did in life. One of these coffins can be view in the Smithsonian institute in Washington DC!

Toured and met the publisher/editors of "Africa Magazine." We return to the cloth market to pick up traditonal attire we had "custom sewn" for us. During the course of the next few weeks we will be wearing traditional attire often as it is expected as some ceremonies and actually a lot more comfortable in the tropical climate. In the late afternoon we visited a local internet cafe to continue course work.

Attended a joint music conference put on by the University of Ghana and New York University. this was an in-depth presentation on a number of music subjects including the history of the popular "Highlife" music and information on early music "Theatre" similar to Vaudeville. then the class heard a lecture and spirited discussion by world recognized ethnomusicologist and composer Kwabena Nkretia. His books on African music are considered the authority on the subject. Later 2300 music class discussion on a number of topics regarding our cultural experiences thus far.

Leave the Accra area for a trip along the coast to discover the historical and natural aspects of Ghana. We visit a FANTE town and a local ASAFO historical site. Arrive in Elmina, a Portuguese town that included one of the castles that Slaves were collected to be tranported to the new world. A very solemn and moving experience. The hotel, like most places in Ghana, have numerous drums in the lounges and lobbies. People play them for recreation and live music is a daily occurrence.

We awake early to travel to the town Cape Coast to tour a British Castle that was involved in the transit of slaves to the new world. The surrounding beach "bustled" with un-counted numbers of traditional wooden fishing boats. Our group travels inland to visit the most famous Ghana national park called "Kakum." Kakum is a rainforest and one of only 2 places in the world where you can experience a "canopy walk." In the trees about 100 feet above the jungle floor hangs 20 rope bridges. you can literally walk across the top of the rainforest from tree to tree. Most people think that large animals are all over in Africa, however it is rare to see animals because they only come out at night, even here in the rainforest. Along the trail back to the park office in a small clearing, if you are thirsty, you can purchase a coconut juice... where they chop off the top of the coconut with a machete, and insert a straw letting you drink out of the coconut! While one has to be careful anywhere, most all the food is safe and healthy to eat here in Ghana. Except for some fatigue due to our busy schedule our group has stayed amazingly healthy. Upon leaving Kakum we tour CAPECOAST UNIVERSITY. This is the largest college for training teachers in Ghana. Education and in particular college is highly esteemed in Ghana. There are stringent entry tests to be admitted and virtually EVERYONE is either in school or studying to be admitted. Commercials on local television, instead of selling products, are often educational. Last night I saw a commercial explaining how to find the dimensions of an Isosceles triangle. We return to our hotel and spend some time in discussion groups about the history and nature we have experienced.

Driving slowly back to the capital city Accra we have a chance to really experience the coast and the awesome scenery of Ghana..... as well as some of the daily life. "GRASS-CUTTERS" ....a large rodent is found in abundance and considered a delicacy. people often stop to buy cooked ones along the side of the road. On the way back our guide constantly informs us of the tribal areas we are in and the local customs and traditions. About half way back we are stopped by a traffic jam... not of cars but of about 20 cattle standing in the road.

We have been traveling and studying steadily for the previous 20 days straight so today is a "day off." we do however try to arrange a trip for the group to the coast to go swimming in the Gulf of Guinea. The water is clean but the shoreline tends to be rocky and the waves are very high.

Another "history" day as we tour the Ghana National Muesum. Music is such a large part of life though that you find it all over in the museum. An average person in Ghana doesnt get through a day without being involved in some form of music... and usually participating! In the afternoon we tour the Ghana National Theatre with a personal tour backstage and throughout. In the lobby stand a couple of the largest drums I have ever seen done in beautiful mahoghany and gold, representing the traditional tribal "King and Queen."

We again pay our last visit to John Collins recording studio to hear his presentation on the roots of pop ghanaian music including the unique style of guitar playing associated with early sailors returning from the new world. Dr. Varner presents an afternoon lecture featuring recordings of musics from other parts of Africa including Kimbabwe, Kenya, Eithiopia, and more

A rare experience for our students. We have arranged to meet and take lessons with KaKraba Lobi. KaKraba is world reknowned for his ability to improvise and perform on the "GYIL." This traditional "marimba" has wooden keys amplified by gourds and is relatively hard to play. KaKraba has recorded many CD's and traveled often to the united states. Our time learning from him and hearing him perform was invaluable. Sadly, within 2 weeks of our departure he passed away, making us possibly some of the last Americans to experience his gentle and joyful musicmaking. We return a final time to the clothmarket where we "barter and bargain" in a good natured competition to purchase those final few memories and souvenirs to take back to our families. In our continued effort to really experience daily life we spend the afternoon and evening in a traditional Muslim household. As virtually everywhere, they insist on sharing their dinner with us and our group has a delightful evening answering the many questions they have about Texas and about America. they can not understand why more Americans dont visit Ghana... and after our experiences I must agree with them! More people should visit!

The morning is taken with one of Dr. Varner's final class lecture on music and a long discussion on what we have experienced and been a part of. In the afternoon we travel around the area a final time and visit some local churches and cathedrals.

We are up much too early to pack and depart. Getting aboard the plane is uneventful and all too soon we find ourselves flying over the deserts of Senegal and across the Atlantic ocean. We return to the United States via New York and spend an evening layover.